State Parks for Epic Rock Climbing
Soaking in sunshine on a rocky summit with panoramic vistas spread out in all directions is especially sweet when you’ve earned the view. As a traditional (trad), sport or bouldering climber, you’re forced outside your comfort zone and into a place where mind and body are one. You’re living in the moment, drawing on strength, agility, confidence and instinct to read the mountain and reach your goal.
Start climbing inside at an indoor climbing gym to get ready for more challenging outdoor routes. From perfecting your figure eight knot to learning belay techniques and the difference between a 5.0 beginner route and an elite 5.15 buttress, practicing in the controlled environment of an indoor wall will help you master the fundamentals and build confidence. You’ll also get used to using gear essentials like grippy yet flexible climbing shoes, a helmet, chalk bag and a bouldering crash pad.
Soon you’ll be solving bouldering problems on the pink granite domes of Texas and navigating the cracks and jugs on classic quartzite cliffs of North Carolina. Summit the crags at these American state parks known for some of the best trad routes, sport climbs and boulder routes in the country.
1. John Bryan State Park
Where: Springfield, Ohio
The limestone cliffs of the Little Miami River Gorge offer something for every level of climber. Along the North Rim Trail, six climbing sites and one rappelling site are marked by large, painted eyebolts at the top. Only top roping is allowed and each site is limited to 10 people at a time. Southern exposure means you’ll climb in the warm sunshine in winter, and have plenty of tree shade in summer.
2. Ohiopyle State Park
Where: Ohiopyle, Pennsylvania
Bike along a four-mile rail trail or hike in to the intermediate to discover advanced top roping routes, sport routes and bouldering problems in the Laurel Highlands of southwestern Pennsylvania. The notoriously rocky Keystone State offers so much bouldering around the Ohiopyle region that you’ll get plenty of climbing solitude out on the sandstone rocks.
3. Staunton State Park
Where: Pine, Colorado
Hike the Staunton Ranch Trail 2.1 miles to over 60 beginner to expert trad, sport and mixed routes on the granite domes and spires outside Colorado Springs. Staunton Rocks and Lion’s Head are popular routes. Check for fixed protection restrictions and falcon nesting closures before you go.
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4. Castle Rocks State Park
Where: Almo, Idaho
Climb bolted intermediate to advanced sport and trad routes on pinnacles and monoliths rising over 350 feet above the surrounding sagebrush, willow and aspen forest. There is world class bouldering as well, with beginner to expert problems in Taco Cave and The Green Wall, enough for a full day in the park. Bordering Bureau of Land Management-managed lands are closed to climbing and bouldering, so check maps and park borders before you go.
5. Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Where: Fredericksburg, Texas
Two pink granite domes, called batholiths, rise up to 425 feet over Big Sandy Creek in Texas Hill Country, home to more advanced beginner to expert bolted and trad climbing routes than you can fit into one day. Erratics surrounding the main domes offer plenty of bouldering problems for any skill level. Follow the rules to protect this unique landscape: don’t use pitons, use clean gear for protection when crack climbing and don’t alter rock features, even on bolted routes with substantial runouts.
6. Hanging Rock State Park
Where: Danbury, North Carolina
Intermediate to expert trad climbers are drawn to the high-quality quartzite of Moore’s Wall with the added perk of a short approach from a parking area built specifically for climbers. Multi-pitch overhanging routes have plenty of jugs, with notoriously adventurous descents with a limited number of rappel stations. Be sure to fill out an activity permit and registration before you climb.
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7. Snow Canyon State Park
Where: Ivins, Utah
Climb the red rock cliffs on easy to access intermediate and advanced sport and trad routes. You’ll be dealing with desert sandstone and heat, so consider sun exposure and time of day when you’re choosing your start time. Apply online for a canyoneering permit to explore Island in the Sky.
8. Grayson Highlands State Park
Where: Mouth of Wilson, Virginia
Solve problems at over 5,000 feet on four main bouldering fields and three smaller fields with a total of over 700 named routes. High elevation rhyolite and quartzite matrix at lower elevation creates steep features with plenty of rails, flakes and edges. Rent a crash pad at the park office and check the forecast for extreme conditions that are common in the colder months.
9. Thacher State Park
Where: East Berne, New York
Sport routes on smooth limestone, with bulging overhangs and roofs, make this a destination for experienced climbers willing to work for access. Park above the cliff to hike down to the base through a small squeeze chimney. All climbers must register at the visitor center. Trad climbing is not allowed, and you’re not allowed to climb on the cliff face that extends beyond the designated climbing area.
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